The water is warming quickly, it was in the mid 50s this afternoon of May 24. The tide was ebbing down the Sound, slowed by a steady southwest breeze in opposition. Hugging the shore, staying in the shallows, drifting and diving with 10-15 ft of visibility, I located a little nest of togs. On one dive, a big old white chin skirted a large boulder, not particularly alarmed, so I gave pursuit. Pursuit may be a bit of a misnomer when spearfishing, as the only way to get close to a fish that knows you're there is to be unassuming and nonchalant. It was clear this tog wasn't afraid, and after a bit of patience, she circled back within reach. The shot was quick, and the spear easily penetrated the fish. Unfortunately, the shot was a wee low, in the belly, a soft part of the fish that often results in it tearing off, only to be lost and die an ignominious and wasteful death. That's almost what happened. The fish did tear off, but it was wounded enough that it struggled to dart off into the nether. I quickly realized my second chance, managed to dive and pin the fish to the ocean floor as it struggled to get free. Grasping the fish in a bear hug I swam for shore. Now, tog are notoriously tough fish, and without getting into the gory details of the hunt, just as I arrived in the shallows this fish managed one last heave after being completely eviscerated, and slipped from my grasp. Ahhhh! I was crushed. After searching desperately under rocks nearby I came up empty handed. Round 2. I knew this fish couldn't have gone too far, it was just whether I could find her. Thankfully I did, the tog was swimming weakly about 15 ft away. After another round of rumble tumble, the fish was mine, and this time my bear hug lasted until I was on shore. A beautiful spring run tog, about 8 lbs, my first fish for 2009.
Upon returning from Turks and Caicos I was dismayed to find I had left the front portion of my polespear behind. It likely hid in an inconspicuous manner until we departed, lured by the perennially warm and crystalline waters. I can hardly lay blame, I thought about it too. But in retrospect, this act of desertion ended up in my favor, it allowed me to reevaluate. The spear that I had was 6 feet of 1/2 in. aluminum rod, pretty beefy for a lot of what I hunt around here, so far tog, Rhody stripers, and those monstrous cunner I found last summer off Cape Ann. I wanted a laser with a little kick, not something that was going to stone a 40 lb cow. After a bunch of carbon fiber, kevlar fiberglass, epoxy, stainless steel hardware, and some shrink wrap, I was in business. My new and improved spear, at 6 ft., is a lot lighter, a little longer, and I'm willing to bet pretty rugged to boot. This last point will be determined by time.Fish Head Soup
Tautog, a member of the wrasse family, moves into Southern New England waters as the ocean temperature creeps over 50 degrees or so. Mother's Day would be a good bet for early arrivals. They enjoy munching on mussels, crabs, limpets, and other tough as nuts critters. To crush through the shells of their diet they have massive heads filled with thick, dense muscles, aka meat, and big gnarly teeth. Even the throat is covered with what would best be described as molars. I've heard tautog referenced as a poor mans lobster, but I wouldn't go that far. Monkfish on the other hand s
tands a chance at such a claim. But it does have surprisingly firm flesh, and is of a somewhat different consistency than the standard white flakes you find on most fish. Tog heads are known around these parts for making a superior fish stock, but I'd be surprised to see them show up at the dinner table, at least at a yankee dinner table. But after experimenting a few times with various fish heads over the last few years, it's clear there are some mighty fine morsels tucked away in there. So I was sure to make the most of this fish that nearly got away.12 cups water
1 bay leaf
1 carrot, chooped
1 rib celery, chopped
1 small onion, chopped
1 disc ginger, smashed
1 stalk lemon grass, sliced and bruised
2-3 sprigs cilantro
1 tsp szechuan peppercorns
1/2 tsp chile flakes
1 togfish head and collar, split (+ the rack if at hand)
1 tbsp peanut oil
1 cup shredded Chinese cabbage
1 tbsp cilantro, minced
1 tbsp green onion, minced
2 tbsp nuoc mam
1 tbsp lime juice
In a ceramic dutch over, over medium-high heat, add 1/2 tbsp oil and sear collars and head on both sides, remove. Add remaining 1/2 tbsp, saute carrot, onion, celery, lemon grass, ginger, lemon grass, chile flakes until aromatics are released. Add water, cilantro, bay leaf, and rack, cover and bring to simmer for 1 hour. Skim as necessary. Strain stock through cheeseclotch.
Bring 4 cups clear stock to simmer, add fish head, collar, and 1 cubed carrot, cook 10 minutes. Finish with 2 tbsp noac mam, lime juice, 1 tbsp minced cilantro, and 1 tbsp minced green onion.
